Bonaire
About our trip to Bonaire
A few years ago, I got certified to scuba dive and started researching the best places to dive in the Caribbean. Bonaire kept coming up, and since I’ve always wanted to go to Curacao, I decided to do a little island hopping and discover the underwater world of Bonaire.
We flew directly into Bonaire from Houston on United Airlines; this flight is only offered on Saturdays, and we had to stay the night in the Houston to make the connection. I could write a whole blog on how confusing it is to get to the hotel inside the Houston Airport, so if you are taking this route, definitely research it in advance. At the end of this article, I will provide other airline routes to Bonaire.
When you arrive at Bonaire you exit the plane down a set of stairs and walk towards the airport terminal. As you enter a roped line area you need to show the QR code you received when you paid your tourist entry tax. (https://tourismtax.bonairegov.com/) A screen shot will suffice, no need to print it out. Customs did not take long, but you will be waiting outside under a shade cover, so be prepared with layers you can strip off and some water.
We rented a truck from AB Car Rental, and they were great. Someone was waiting for us with a sign that said “AB Car Rental” when we exited the airport, and it was a short walk to a nice, airconditioned van waiting for us. After a short drive we were at the rental place and were on the road in no time. There are several groceries right across the street from AB Car Rental, so one of us ran in to grab some provisional items while the other one waited with the luggage. They are close enough that if you are by yourself, you could leave the car at AB with your luggage and run across the street.
It was an easy drive to our hotel, I chose Bamboo Bonaire Boutique Resort because we like having a small kitchen and enjoy smaller, boutique hotels. It isn’t ocean front, but we went to some of the ocean front hotels, and the beached there weren’t really worth the money, in my opinion. I will provide more information on Bamboo later in this article.
Things you should know when planning a trip to Bonaire
Bonaire is a special municipality within the Kingdom of the Netherlands. It is the westernmost group of the Lesser Antilles in the Caribbean Sea and located only 50 miles (80 km) off the coast of Venezuela. It’s only about 843 miles (1,358 km) from the equator) so it is very warm all year, and it gets roughly 12 hours of daylight year-round.
The weather reports will tell you that the average temperature is 83°F/28°C, but when you factor in the humidity it will feel much warmer. The water temperature is the warmest I’ve ever experienced in the Caribbean, the average is 78-84°F/25.6-28.9°C, but when we were there in October it was 86°F every day, even while diving at a depth of 97 feet!
All visitors must pay a Visitor Tax of $75 per visit to Bonaire. This applies to all non-residents aged 13 and older.
US Dollars were accepted everywhere, as were credit cards. We really only used cash to tip our dive leaders and at the ice cream shops (more about these later!)
I was so impressed with the ability of everyone on the island to speak multiple languages. In addition to the local dialect of Papiamentu, every local we met also spoke both English and Dutch, several people also spoke Spanish and Portuguese.
Driving on the island
I highly recommend that you rent a car on Bonaire. Driving was easy, and traffic wasn’t too bad. It’s the heaviest at the turns in Kralendijk, the farther away from the downtown area you are, the lighter it is.
Sundays the locals cruise the downtown area and hang out. It’s a fun time to grab a drink at an outdoor bar but be advised that traffic is heavy, and parking can be tough.
Once you pass 1000 steps the road becomes a one-way street, so if you choose to keep going you are committed to going all the way around Rincon, a drive that takes about 40 minutes. It’s a narrow road, but definitely worth doing once. It’s a beautiful drive and takes you by large lagoons where hundreds of wild flamencos live.
Always be on the lookout for donkeys and goats, they will cross the roads, and they have the right of way.
There are no traffic lights on the island, but lots of roundabouts. If you are from a place that does not use roundabouts, please familiarize yourself with how they work before you arrive.
Pro Tip: If you’re on a narrow road, both cars drive slightly on the side of the road and pass each other. If you reach a very narrow curvy section, proceed slowly until you can see if there are any oncoming cars that have already entered that section. If they have, pull to the side until they pass.
The best dive spots on Bonaire
- Oil Slick is good dive but also good for snorkeling
- Andrea I is beautiful with an easy shore entry. Some other divers we met had seen an octopus here, during the day, out in the open, but we had no such luck.
- The Salt Pier was one of my favorite dives, tons of fish and coral on the pier.
- Red Slave was an awesome dive, but conditions must be just right to do it. If you have a window, definitely take advantage of it.
The best beaches on Bonaire
Bachelor’s Beach was our favorite beach for swimming, and I also thought it was the prettiest beach on the island. To be clear, there’s not much of a beach there, especially during high tide, so I wouldn’t plan on doing a beach day there, but it’s worth seeing and perfect for a dip in the water. The parking lot isn’t very big, so get there early and it’s very popular on cruise ship days.
Te Amo Beach is the best place for a beach day if you actually want to set up chairs and hang out on the beach. The snorkeling was just okay, but it has a nice flat sandy entrance. The parking lot is fairly large here, but it does fill up on cruise ship days. Kite City food truck is at this beach, and it was very good. I highly recommend the fish sandwich.
1000 Steps is good for snorkeling. There aren’t literally 1000 steps to get down to the beach, but there are quite a few, so it’s not ideal for people with mobility issues. The beach itself is rocky, and entry and exit can be tricky because the rocks move under your feet.
Pro tip: If your main goal is beautiful beaches, Bonaire may not be the right island for you. Its main draw is what’s under the water, so if you aren’t big on diving or snorkeling you will probably only want to spend a few days on this island.
Other things to note
Grocery stores are plentiful, nice and well stocked. You don’t necessarily need to go to the biggest grocery store unless you have very specific items you need. Zhung Kong Supermarket was the closest to out hotel and it had everything we needed to make a few meals in our room, plus snacks and drinks.
Pro Tip: Bring your own grocery bags, I like these that pack down small and they make great beach bags.
There are very few tourist kids on this island, so it’s basically like an adults-only paradise.
It’s easy to get around and it’s not a big island. There really is no bad place to stay in the main tourist areas.
The tourist area of the island is walkable compared to most of the islands I have been to, in that it’s mostly flat and there are usually either sidewalks or wide space off the road.
Bugs are an issue. I got more bits here than I usually do in the Caribbean, and mosquitoes don’t even usually like me. I prefer these wipes to spray, you can easily through a few in your beach bag or purse, and they can go in your carry on!
The best restaurants in Bonaire
First let’s talk ice cream, because this island does it to perfection! We went to Luciano’s twice, it was so good, and it will be my first spot if we ever go back to Bonaire. Our other favorite spot was Gio’s, it’s the best gelato I’ve had outside of Italy.
Artisan Bakery has some excellent homemade sourdough and baked goods, but you have to get there early for the best selection.
Rum Runner’s @ Captain Don’s is decent enough and we could walk to it from our hotel. The salad was good and the fish in poke bowl was fresh, but it’s pricey and nothing special.
Posada Para Mira is ideal for adventurous eaters that want a truly local experience. I really liked the goat stew. I didn’t end up trying the iguana soup, but the locals love it.
Pizza Mare is very good for Italian. We got the pizza and lasagna, both were great.
As I mentions above, we really liked the Kite City food truck at Te Amo Beach. There are no tables to sit and eat at, so be prepared to grab a rock or bring a beach towel to eat on.
If you are a foodie the one place you must eat is Chef’s at Bamboo. It’s a five-course prefixed menu of the Chef’s choice that day. It has very limited seating, reservations are a must, and it books up months in advance. I recommend bar seating so you can watch the chefs make the food and hear them explain what they are serving. The cost was about $200 for both of us, and you won’t leave terribly full. I’m not a big foodie, but I still really enjoyed the experience and the food is excellent.
Our favorite lunch was at Bari beach bar located on the Chogogo Resort property. It has a great vibe and feels like a fun beach bar. It’s very casual, you can wear your swimsuit and be barefoot. The food is good, we liked the salad with shrimp and the ahi fish burger.
Other activities to do on Bonaire
Take a private boat charter to the Marine Reserve
Kayak and snorkel in the mangroves
Head over to Klien Bonaire, a small island off the coast of Bonaire, for some fantastic snorkeling
Swim in the fresh water caves
Spend the day exploring and see the flamingos in Washington Slagbaai National Park
Take a tour of the whole island
Spend the day at Chogogo Resort, even if you aren't staying there! It's $25 for a day pass, they have an awesome lazy river, nice pools and a good beach bar. The beach is rocky, but manageable if you want to get in the water.
About Bamboo Bonaire Boutique Resort
Bamboo Bonaire is so romantic, ideal for a honeymoon or a couple looking for some rest and relaxation. It’s also great for solo travelers that prefer to stay away from big hotels. All of the rooms are little bungalows that don’t share a wall with your neighbors. The lush foliage that surrounds each unit makes it feel very private and peaceful.
The location was perfect. It’s easy to walk across the street to several other resorts to eat, there’s a great little grocery store a block down the road, and its located about halfway between the main part of town and several of the best dive sites. We drove into town daily and it was an easy 5–10 minute drive.
We prefer to stay in Airbnbs because of the kitchen and the privacy, and Bamboo offers the best of both worlds. Our unit had Little kitchen with full fridge, stove and microwave, perfect for a light breakfast before a day of diving, heating up leftovers, and keeping some snacks and beverages handy.
Our favorite part was the outdoor bathroom area. This isn’t for everyone, as you have to go outside to shower, use the toilet and get ready for bed, but we absolutely loved the open air, dual showers after a day of diving. We didn’t end up using our outdoor pool, so I would probably not opt for that next time.
The only negatives were that the pillows weren’t great, and no beach chairs are provided, but as I mentioned above, the beaches aren’t great on Bonaire for spending a fully day there, so the lack of beach chairs wasn’t a big issue.
Other lodging option
Other places I didn’t stay, but would also recommend based on what I saw and heard from other travelers:
Delfins Beach Resort is close to the airport and several dive operators. They offer a buffet and continental breakfast,
Chogogo Dive & Beach Resort Bonaire has a fantastic lazy river and a cool beach bar
Belnem House Bonaire is a short walk from Bachelor's Beach
How to get to Bonaire
Direct flights from the United States:
- United Airlines has one flight a week on Saturdays from Newark and one flight a week from Houston, flying to Bonaire on Saturdays and returning on Sundays.
- Delta Airlines has a flight on Saturdays from Atlanta, and daily from Atlanta December 19th-January 5th.
- JetBlue has two flights a week on Tuesdays and Saturdays from JFK
- American Airlines has flights on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays & Saturdays from Miami, and daily flights from Miami December 19th-January 6th.
Direct flights from Canada:
- WestJet has flights December 10th – April 30th, flying to Bonaire on Tuesdays and returning on Wednesdays.
Direct flights from the Netherlands:
- TUI Airlines: Offers direct flights from Amsterdam
- KLM Airlines: Offers direct flights from Amsterdam
- Connecting flights: If there are no direct flights to Bonaire, you can fly to Curacao or Aruba and take a connecting flight to Bonaire on EZ Air and Divi Divi Air.
Click here for updated flight information.
Pro Tip: I sometimes mix and match airlines to get where I need to go more efficiently. For example, its faster (and usually cheaper) to fly from my home airport to Miami on Alaska, then take American to several Caribbean destinations. If I’m using points, I will often book the legs separate on the same carrier if the flight I want isn’t offered if you are using points. For example, I couldn’t book my home airport to Bonaire through Houston with my United points, so I booked Houston to Bonaire with points, then paid cash for the flight from my home airport to Houston.
How to get to Curacao from Bonaire
Divi Divi to Curaçao. Airport is super easy, one hour before flight is plenty of time. We just had a screen shot of our boarding pass, took rolly and backpack through security and they put the rolly into the bottom of the plane just before we boarded. I recommend giving them your bag top of you don’t want it to be in your lap. Line outside to check a bag takes a while and is not in air conditioning. If another flight arrives before yours the gate check person leaves to go board it, so you’ll just be standing there waiting for him to come back.
Check out this blog for my Caribbean packing list
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